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Photo: Sanjaya Dhakal/BBC Nepali.
In Nepal, some communities have put their recovered idols in iron cages for security.

Who does art belong to? For centuries, looters have justified their thefts by asserting that they aim to protect the stolen art for posterity. That no longer holds up, and now art is getting returned to the plundered countries.

And if you play nice and return Nepali idols, you may be given an accurate replica.

Sanjaya Dhakal writes at The Guardian, “Along a small street in Nepal’s Bhaktapur city stands an unassuming building with a strange name — the Museum of Stolen Art. Inside it are rooms filled with statues of Nepal’s sacred gods and goddesses.

“Among them is the Saraswati sculpture. Sitting atop a lotus, the Hindu goddess of wisdom holds a book, prayer beads and a classical instrument called a veena in her four hands.

“But like all the other sculptures in the room, the statue is a fake. The Saraswati is one of 45 replicas in the museum, which will have an official site in Panauti, set to open to the public in 2026.

“The museum is the brainchild of Nepalese conservationist Rabindra Puri, who is spearheading a mission to secure the return of dozens of Nepal’s stolen artifacts, many of which are scattered across museums, auction houses or private collections in countries like the US, UK and France.

“In the past five years, he has hired half a dozen craftsmen to create replicas of these statues, each taking between three months and a year to finish. The museum has not received any government funding. His mission is to secure the return of these stolen artifacts – in exchange for the replicas he has created.

“In Nepal, such statues reside in temples all across the country and are regarded as part of the country’s ‘living culture,’ rather than mere showpieces, says Sanjay Adhikari, the secretary of the Nepal Heritage Recovery Campaign. Many are worshipped by locals every day, with some followers offering food and flowers to the gods. …

“It is also common for followers to touch these statues for blessings — meaning they are also rarely guarded — leaving them wide open for thieves.

“Nepal has categorized more than 400 artifacts missing from temples and monasteries across the country, but the number is highly likely to be an underestimate, says Saubhagya Pradhananga, who heads the official Department of Archaeology.

“From the 1960s to the 1980s, hundreds of artifacts were looted from Nepal as the isolated country was opening up to the outside world. Many of the country’s most powerful administrators back then were believed to have been behind some of these thefts — responsible for smuggling them abroad to art collectors and pocketing the proceeds.

“For decades, Nepalis were largely unaware about their missing art and where it had gone, but that has been changing, especially since the founding of the National Heritage Recovery Campaign in 2021 – a movement led by citizen activists to reclaim lost treasures. …

“There are many hurdles. The Taleju Necklace, dating back to the 17th century, is a case in point. …

“It’s still unclear how it might have been stolen and many in Nepal had no idea where it might have gone until three years ago, when it was seen in an unlikely place – the Art Institute of Chicago.

“It was spotted by Dr Sweta Gyanu Baniya, a Nepali academic based in the US who said she fell to her knees and started to cry when she saw the necklace.

“According to the Art Institute of Chicago, the necklace is a gift from the Alsdorf Foundation — a private US foundation. The museum told the BBC it has communicated with the Nepali government and is awaiting additional information.

“It’s not just a necklace, it’s a part of our goddess who we worship. I felt like it shouldn’t be here. It’s sacred,” she told the US university Virginia Tech. …

“But [Saubhagya Pradhananga, who heads the official Department of Archaeology] said Nepal’s Department of Archaeology had provided enough evidence, including archival records. On top of that, an inscription on the necklace says it was specifically made for the Goddess of Taleju by King Pratap Malla.

“It’s these ‘tactics of delay’ that often ‘wear down campaigners,’ says one activist, Kanak Mani Dixit. ‘They like to use the word “provenance” whereby they ask for evidence from us. The onus is put on us to prove that it belongs to Nepal, rather than on themselves on how they got hold of them.’ …

“Many worshippers are now a lot more paranoid — putting these idols in iron cages to protect them from going missing.

“Mr Puri however hopes his museum will eventually have its shelves wiped bare.”

More at the BBC, here. No paywall.

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Photo: BBC.
Monday Aigbe standing alongside a statue of his great-grandfather, one of the sculptors of the famous Benin Bronzes.

You have probably heard that art museums around the world have started to return to Africa the bronze sculptures stolen from Benin. In today’s post we learn what the return of the bronzes means to the local people.

Mayeni Jones, the BBC’s Nigeria correspondent, reports, “On the bustling streets of Nigeria’s Benin City, residents cannot wait to get their Bronzes back — for them their return symbolizes reparations for some of the wrongs committed by British troops during the colonial era.

“A statue of a cockerel is one priceless artifact soon to be welcomed home, after Jesus College handed it over to a delegation from Nigeria at a ceremony at Cambridge University on Wednesday.

“It is one of thousands of metal sculptures and ivory carvings made between the 15th and 19th Centuries and looted by British troops in 1897 from the West African kingdom of Benin, in modern day Nigeria’s Edo state.

” ‘I feel happy that the work of my great-grandfather will be coming back to Benin,’ says Monday Aigbe, who, like his ancestor, is a sculptor. He runs a foundry in Benin City, the capital of Edo state, where his craftsmen work quietly on brass statues.

“The skilled workers fashion a myriad of shapes out of metal, including busts of the Oba — the title of the traditional king of Benin — as well as statues of animals and carved doors.

“They have been making bronzes here for six generations. In the middle of the foundry is a large statue of Mr Aigbe’s great-grandfather. He worked for Oba Ovonramwen Nogbaisi when the raid took place on the Royal Palace more than 120 years ago.

‘It makes me upset because they came, they destroyed the palace, they made my great-grandfather run from the city to the village,’ says Mr Aigbe.

“The loot was amongst the most valuable African artworks ever made — and was sold or gifted to private collectors and museums around the world.

“With more and more of the stolen artifacts expected back in Nigeria — [the] University of Aberdeen in Scotland will also be returning one of its Bronzes — Mr Aigbe plans to take his children to see them when they go on display.

“This will be at the Edo Museum of West African Art — a grand initiative by the governor of Edo state to house all the returned Benin Bronzes. The authorities say it will not be completed for at least five years – construction on the building, set to be designed by famous British-Ghanaian architect David Adjaye, has yet to start. …

“The British government has argued that the Benin Bronzes ‘properly reside’ in the British Museum, which has the largest collection of them in the world — with more than 900 pieces. Hosting the ancient objects in London also ensures they are accessible to the world, the UK authorities say.

“But it is an argument that [Theophilus Umogbai, deputy director and curator of the National Museum Benin] takes exception to, saying that most Nigerians will never get to see them there given visa and travel costs. …

” ‘When I saw the Bronzes in the British Museum I was happy at first. Then that thought was replaced by the feeling that these objects were incongruously sitting where they shouldn’t be. They should be back home.’

“Twenty-eight-year-old artist Joe Obamina agrees — as he believes it is the past that inspires the future. In his sunlit studio in Benin City he makes pixellated paintings — inspired by his childhood spent indoors, playing Tetris. …

” ‘Each pixel is a continuous story. Besides the overall image, I tell other stories inside each cube,’ says Mr Obamina. …

“One painting depicts the Idia mask, one of the most famous Benin Bronzes. It is said to be a carving of the face of the mother of an oba from the first half of the 16th Century.

” ‘My painting of the Idia mask was inspired by the ongoing restitution of the Benin Bronzes,’ says Mr Obamina.

” ‘We grew up without seeing the actual mask, just the replicas. Our heritage has been scattered, so I had to paint something to depict that: the scattered heritage that is abroad. But nevertheless we still have our own identity and cultural practices. That’s why when you take a picture of it with your phone you can still see the mask in full.’ …

” ‘These artifacts being returned is going to mean a lot, because it will help me connect with my ancestors.’ “

More at the BBC, here. For another take and some additional pictures, check out a story by Sylvie Corbet and Thomas Adamson at the Associated Press (AP), here.

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