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Photo: Steffen Trumpf/picture-alliance/dpa/AP/File.
The whaling ships Hvalur 9 and Hvalur 8 in port, August 2019, in Reykjavík.
Gradually, Icelanders have been rethinking whether they want to be part of the violent whaling hunt.

Deep, ingrained national behaviors can change. Take, for example, the acceptance of whaling among Icelanders. Will the big whaling countries’ populations be next?

Mark Sappenfield writes for the Christian Science Monitor, “For more than 40 years, Kristján Loftsson has fought a battle that most outside Iceland want him to lose. This week, he might have gotten his toughest foe yet: Iceland itself.

“Mr. Loftsson owns Hvalur hf., Iceland’s lone whaling company, and for much of the past few decades, its greatest success has been survival. Through moratoriums, protests, sabotage, and even the collapse of the market for Icelandic whale meat, Mr. Loftsson has endured. Iceland remains one of three nations with commercial whaling, along with Norway and Japan.

“[In September], however, Iceland’s ruling coalition proposed a potential revision of whaling laws that could lead to a ban. It comes at the end of a summer with a significant sprinkling of drama. Workers at Hvalur controversially played the national anthem as they butchered one whale, and the Icelandic coast guard dramatically raided an anti-whaling vessel at sea.

“It points to a nation hanging in the balance.

In 2003, 75% of Icelanders supported whaling. This year, 33% do, with 41% against and 26% neutral or indifferent.

“The ambivalence shows the uncertain prospects for the legislative efforts to ban whaling. But it also shows that the tides of public opinion in Iceland are changing. This summer’s pitched battles for public opinion were only the beginning.

“Sitting in a Reykjavík café, Mr. Loftsson does not give the appearance of a man against the world. He chats easily about growing up in the company his father founded. By age 13, he was a mess boy, cleaning the floors. Two years later, he was a deckhand, climbing into the crow’s nest. …

“He notes that fin whales are not endangered in the North Atlantic, and he dismisses scientific findings that show whales to be highly intelligent, social animals. ‘It’s just something they make up,’ he says, speaking of the opposition.

“For years, Mr. Loftsson’s greatest ally has arguably been Iceland’s sense of independence. The nation has never been afraid to go its own way, and for many Icelanders, whaling has been a token of that defiance. …

“But for others, the playing of the national anthem amid cries of ‘Áfram Ísland’ (‘Forward, Iceland!’) went too far. …

“The broader shifts in support for whaling have been coming for years. Videos of whale kills made public in 2023 shocked many Icelanders – showing the brutality of the hunt, which can involve multiple explosive harpoons, sometimes over an hour or more.

“ ‘Everyone could see how horrible the hunting is,’ says Valgerður Árnadóttir, co-founder of Hvalavinir, an Icelandic organization that seeks to protect whales. ‘It is impossible to hunt in a humane way.’

“Shannon Mann’s hope was to stop this year’s hunt altogether. She was on the ship Bandero this July as part of the Captain Paul Watson Foundation’s worldwide efforts to stop whaling. Instead, she ended up being detained and deported.

“For several weeks of cat and mouse, the Bandero tried to find either of Hvalur’s two ships to interfere with the hunt, but the Icelandic coast guard helped keep their whereabouts secret.

“At last, running low on supplies, the Bandero tracked one Hvalur ship into Iceland’s territorial waters. Mr. Loftsson claims the Bandero tried to sink the Hvalur vessel by ramming it. Ms. Mann disagrees, saying the Bandero never came within two nautical miles. ‘No one was ever at risk. We’re not out to hurt anyone.’

“Within hours, the Icelandic coast guard had helicoptered a team onto a boat in the area and boarded the Bandero. The ship remains in Iceland, docked in the fishing town of Akranes north of Reykjavík, where Nick Bohnet has taken over and is trying to persuade Icelandic authorities to let the Bandero leave. “

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Back in the 1800s, two artists made a painting more than 1,200 feet long, which they then displayed in cities around the country. They charged admission to audiences interested in learning about the whaling life and the exotic places whaling ships dropped anchor on their long voyages.

Until October 8, the New Bedford [Mass.] Whaling Museum is offering free admission to see the painstakingly restored panorama. The venue is an old warehouse, the only place big enough to hold the painting in its extended form.

In the old days, this marvel traveled by train, sparks flying and burning holes in the painted sheeting, and audiences got to see it unscrolling in a frame that looked a bit like the whaling museum’s draped arch in the picture below.

Back then, people would not have been able to walk up and down and go back to an interesting spot to take a picture. At any given moment, they saw only the part that a narrator was describing. Because I could walk back and forth along the extended artwork, the pictures here may not be in sequence — I might be misleading you into thinking the ships got to Fiji before the Azores, for example. (By the way the volcano picture is from Cape Verde.)

Be sure to check out the whaling museum’s information. This link offers a short video. And this one talks about the conservation work: “Created by Benjamin Russell and Caleb Purrington in 1848, this Panorama has been displayed in a host of venues – from a national tour when it was created to the 1964 New York World’s Fair. It was donated to the Museum in 1918 and was displayed for many years. However, one can easily imagine what a century and a half of rolling, unrolling, display, and light can do to deteriorate nearly a quarter-mile of painted cotton sheeting. It has not been exhibited in its entirety for more than 50 years, and the Museum thanks Mystic Seaport for kindly storing this monstrous painting over the past year.”

At the Boston Globe last year, Jennifer McDermott wrote a good preview of the work, which was created, she says, “to capture all aspects of a whaling voyage. The panorama would be mounted on a system of cranks and reels to go across a theater stage as a narrator told stories of hunting whales and processing their carcasses. A poster for the Boston stop in 1849 advertises tickets for 25 cents. The audience members would hear what it was like to round Cape Horn and visit Fiji and other far-flung destinations as they saw painted scenes of those locations.” …

McDermott adds that D. Jordan Berson, who managed the project, “spent a year spraying the panorama with an adhesive to stabilize a paint layer that had powdered over time. The conservator stitched sections that were taken apart, repaired thinning areas of the cotton muslin fabric and fixed holes and tears.”

Nowadays, most of us think it’s a crime to kill these magnificent creatures, but it’s worth knowing how it was done if only because there are still people in places like Japan and Norway whose job it is to do just that.

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092518-Cape-Verde-volcano-at Panorama

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