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Photo: AP Photo/Denes Erdos.
Young people participate in the opening ceremony of the Lawyers’ Ball in Vienna, Austria, March 1, 2025.

Recently, we had Vienna on our minds because Erik and classmates from his high school in Wales were running a marathon there. Erik is a frequent marathoner and managed the course in under three hours, personal best.

Marathons are a longtime tradition in Vienna, but not as long as the activity in today’s story. It’s about the tradition of elegant balls.

Denes Erdos (along with AP journalist Stefanie Dazio in Berlin) submitted a report to the Associated Press.

“The aristocrats of the Habsburg royal court who danced in the first of Vienna’s famed balls in the 18th century could never have imagined how the hallmark of the Austrian capital’s social and cultural scene would evolve. Today, teenagers learn to waltz by watching YouTube videos while ladies shed their elbow-length gloves to better swipe on smartphones.

“More than 450 balls occur annually in Vienna, starting Nov. 11. … Professional guilds throughout the city host their own events, like the Ball of the Viennese Chimney Sweeps that marks the opening of the season.

“The sparkling balls are deeply rooted in Viennese culture, blending history with modern glamour, and the waltz remains an essential part. While the average ticket costs 395 euros ($427) — though VIP boxes at the Opera Ball can go for 25,500 euros ($27,539) — other events have lowered their prices to 40 euros ($43) to attract a wider audience.

“ ‘To be a part of this for me, as an Austrian person, is like taking part in Viennese culture,’ Leander Selmani, 19, said. ‘I was watching all these ball openings on YouTube and I said, “I want to be part of that.” ‘

“Besides YouTube, teens must learn the carefully choreographed dances for each ball’s opening ceremony from places like the Elmayer Dance School, which has been training dancers since 1919. In order to participate in an opening ceremony, dancers must first qualify through a strict regimen. Then they attend multiple lessons at a dance school and receive a stamped certificate of completion after each session. …

“Only once ‘Alles Walzer!’ (‘Let the waltz begin!’) has been declared can the rest of the crowd join in the dancing. This year, many balls honored the 200th anniversary of the birth of Viennese composer and violinist Johann Strauss II, known as the ‘waltz king.’

“While the waltz, the quadrille and other traditional dances are the heart of the Viennese balls, modern events now offer a diverse range of music and entertainment. Most venues feature multiple halls where guests can dance to various styles, including disco and contemporary beats. …

“Dress codes, however, have remained strictly enforced for centuries: gentlemen are required to wear tailcoats or tuxedos, and ladies must don evening gowns. Many attendees rent their attire from Lambert Hofer, a renowned costume workshop founded in 1862 that rents out hundreds of gowns each year.” More at AP via the Seattle Times, here.

Meanwhile in the US, you can take up ballroom dancing, but be prepared: the competition in the championships is fierce. My friend Ronnie’s sister wins them, but after years of work. About the latest competition, Ronnie tells Facebook, “I was in NY recently for the Fred Astaire Cross Country Dance Championships. My sister competed and is now 2025 Fred Astaire National Champion in American Smooth (tango, waltz, fox trot, Viennese waltz) Senior Division.” She is in her 80s.

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Photo: The Albertina.
Thousands of Taylor Swift fans flooded museums in Vienna in August after multiple institutions waived entry fees when security threats forced the cancellation of three concerts. Fans also traded bracelets with museum employees.

We’ve all seen the influence that singer Taylor Swift directly exercises over her fans. Indirectly, she has probably made some of them museum fans, too. That’s because museums in Vienna saw an opportunity when her concerts were cancelled.

Karen K. Ho reports at ArtNews, “Thousands of Taylor Swift fans flooded museums in Vienna [last August] after multiple institutions waived entry fees after three of the singer’s concerts were cancelled due to security threats.

“ ‘We weren’t really sure what to expect,’ Haus der Musik managing director Simon Posch told ARTnews.

‘The participating institutions were the Mozarthaus Vienna, House of Music, KunstHausWien and the Jewish Museum Vienna owned by the City of Vienna; MAK Vienna (Museum of Applied Arts) and MAK Geymüllerschlössel; the modern art museum Mumok, the art museum The Albertina, as well as the museum at the House of Strauss. The Museum quartier also offered Taylor Swift ticket holders free guided tours in English and German on August 10 and 11.

“The initiative was publicized through the Vienna Tourist Board and statements by the city’s mayor, Michael Ludwig, especially on social media.

“Several museum professionals in Vienna told ARTnews the slew of additional visitors were a pleasant surprise to their institutions. The demographics were mostly English-speaking young women, often between the ages of 18 to 25, traveling to the city from countries as far away as China, South Africa, Australia, Canada, and the United States. Many of them were also easily identifiable while wearing the singer’s concert merchandise, colorful outfits intended for the concert, and arms covered in friendship bracelets they intended to trade with other fans.

“The Albertina fully embraced the moment, waiving its [regular entrance fees] for more than 20,000 Swifties. … ‘On a normal and regular weekend, we would have, I would say 2,000 a day,’ spokesperson Nina Eisterer told ARTnews, noting that these types of visitor numbers are usually for blockbuster exhibitions like the one for Claude Monet in 2018.

“Eisterer said she and her colleagues in The Albertina’s marketing division were Swifties themselves, with several people planning to go to the concerts and personally devastated by the news of the cancellations. After the idea for waived entry fees was approved, the art museum’s security and ticketing teams were informed on August 6 that additional staff would be needed.

“The Albertina’s line for Swifties was so long that some fans stood outside in the sun and 91°F heat for approximately 20 minutes. ‘But there was no fuss about it,’ Eisterer said. ‘People were super nice.’

“The museum also switched the soundtracks playing its in 20 historical staterooms from classical music to Taylor Swift albums, prompting several large singalongs that went viral on TikTok.

“ ‘I love classical music, I love Mozart, I love Beethoven, I love all these classical artists, but it was really nice to have a Taylor Swift singalong more or less in the state rooms that normally stand for something else,’ Eisterer said. …

“Other institutions also saw an unexpected bump in activity. … Mozarthaus Vienna said they had 2,663 Swifties between August 9 and August 11, with additional staff called in on Saturday and Sunday. ‘Due to the large number of Swifties, guided tours in English were spontaneously added,’ spokesperson Jasmine Wolfram told ARTnews.

“Mumok’s head of press, Katharina Murschetz said 884 Taylor Swift fans stopped by. Eva Grundschober, the spokesperson for Capuchin’s Crypt said ‘exactly 500 Swifties’ used the option for the free ticket. And Josef Gaschnitz, the chief financial officer of the Jüdisches Museum der Stadt, said visitor numbers were ‘over 100% more’ compared to normal days. …

“Multiple people told ARTnews that social media played a major role in informing Swifties of the ‘super last-minute decision’ for the city’s offers and attracting them to the various museums. [Said] Posch, a self-professed Taylor Swift fan, ‘I think social media is the only way to reach this target group, because it didn’t help if the Austrian National Broadcasting System showed it in the evening news and they put it on their web page. None of these kids is going to visit the ORF home page.’ …

“ ‘We didn’t think about the money or the losing the money at all,’ Eisterer said, noting that its entry fees can be very expensive for young people. ‘It was, for us, important to set like a sign for this concert that had been canceled because of this horrible reason, and to give somehow a bit of hope and say to people, “Hey, we know it’s devastating. You can’t go to the concert, but hey, you can enjoy a bit of of art in Vienna, that’s what we can offer you.” ‘ …

“Some museums, like the Haus of Musik and The Albertina, also planned on extending the free entry offer to Swifties for one or two days beyond the weekend. ‘We will definitely still give them free access if they come with the Taylor Swift ticket,’ Posch said. ‘If they didn’t make it on the weekend and they’re still here, there’ll be no discussion, there’ll be our guests.’ “

More at ArtNews, here.

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Photo: BBC.
Under a government voucher plan, Austria will pay residents to repair broken machines instead of throwing things out.

A new plan in Austria could lead to the emergence of a whole class of tinkerers. There’s money to be made.

Bethany Bell writes at the BBC, “Has your washing machine broken down, or is your electric kettle, laptop or mobile phone refusing to work? Well, if you live in Austria, the government will pay up to €200 ($219) towards getting it repaired.

“The Repair Bonus voucher scheme is aimed at trying to get people to move away from throwing away old electrical appliances – and focusing on getting things mended.

“Erik’s laptop is broken, so he has come to Helferline, a computer and mobile phone repair workshop in Vienna. Because of Austria’s Repair Voucher scheme, he will only have to pay 50% of the repair costs to get it fixed. … Erik has already used the Repair Bonus to mend an old CD player, which is now working well. He says the scheme makes it easier to decide whether or not to throw something away. …

“Helferline’s chief executive, Clemens Schmidgruber, says the Repair Bonus scheme has been great for his business. ‘Our revenues have doubled since it was introduced. So we’re very happy about it,’ he said. …

” ‘Customers benefit because it helps them save a lot of money. Of course, it’s good for local businesses because they generate additional revenues. And the environment benefits, because there’s less electronic waste.’

“Mr Schmidgruber says customers have to download a voucher from a government website and then pay the repair shop upfront. ‘Then you get back half of the costs after three to four weeks.’ …

“The City of Vienna runs a separate scheme – which works in a similar way and helps people pay for repairs to old clothes, bicycles or furniture.

“Markus Piringer, the co-ordinator of the Repair Network in Vienna, says ‘if the costs of the repair are more than 20-30% of the cost of the new product, people tend to buy new. And as the Repair Bonus lowers those costs, it’s a big incentive to repair more. … [But] for many people, it’s still very positive to have always the newest product and to throw away your clothing after half a year or even less. And so this is also something where we need awareness raising.’

“And he warned that while the number of repairs was rising in Austria because of the voucher schemes, there were still too few technicians and craftspeople to do it. ‘We have a problem that we don’t have enough repairers. So we also need a system which is promoting repairs as a job.’ …

“At his bicycle shop in Vienna, Marc Warnaar and his team are fixing a bike, which has rusted brake and gear cables. ‘They don’t make spare parts for this gear system,’ he says, ‘Especially the gear cables, you cannot buy them anymore. So what we’ll do is exchange them with a newer model, so it will run again.’

“He says the Vienna Repair voucher has made a big difference to his business. ‘Normally we see a large decline in repairs, especially in winter. But now we see a lot of people coming because of this voucher and getting their bikes repaired also in winter.’ “

More at the BBC, here. And check out my 2012 post about Dutch repair cafés, here

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Photo: Richard Conway/Bloomberg CityLab.
The 478-unit Reumannhof, public housing completed in 1926, was named for Vienna’s first Social Democratic mayor, Jakob Reumann.

Making sure all residents have decent housing is a challenge for cities around the globe. Richard Conway at Bloomberg CityLab says Vienna pretty much figured it out in the 1920s. He maintains it’s the reason Vienna is such a livable city today.

“The housing crunch that the growing city of Vienna faced a century ago,” he writes, “might seem strikingly familiar today: Private developers in the Austrian capital were good at building elegant luxury residences and substandard tenements for the poor, but they’d failed to create enough units to allow average residents to live in decent comfort at an affordable price.

“In response, Vienna’s Social Democratic government pursued a solution that modern cities still struggle to emulate: a massive construction program for public housing.

“The municipal apartment complexes they built, known as Gemeindebau, provided new homes at a volume and level of quality never seen before, and rarely seen since. The long-term results not only saw conditions for the average Viennese skyrocket, they also provided a hugely influential example for cities from Moscow to Manhattan.

These cities-within-a-city included medical facilities, schools, libraries, post offices and theater spaces.

“The Viennese Gemeindebau — plural Gemeindebauten — emerged in a city already in flux. Following Austria’s defeat in World War I, the country’s empire had dissolved and its monarchy was replaced by a democracy, in which the Social Democratic Workers Party (SDAPÖ) had the largest number of seats, both nationally and in Vienna. Once in power, the Social Democrats started addressing an issue central to their base: the overcrowding plaguing the new republic’s capital.

“In the 40 years leading up to 1918 … working-class families often lived in tenements known as Bassena, so named after the communal sinks found in their hallways. While they could look grand from the street, six or seven people might pack into a single apartment; often, each household shared a toilet and a sink and lacked electricity or heating beyond coal and wood stoves. They weren’t cheap, either: About 25% of a tenant’s wages went toward monthly rent, according to a 2022 MIT study.

“Starting in 1919 and continuing through to 1934, the Social Democrats launched a series of wide-reaching urban reforms focused on improving living conditions, education and social services. This period of SDAPÖ rule, widely known as Red Vienna, was informed by non-Bolshevik Austro-Marxism, which emphasized democracy, parliamentary politics and public investment. The Gemeindebauten, or municipal housing projects, were born.

“In the early days of the administration, there were two competing types of Gemeindebau. The first was associated with the settler movement: a group of low-income Viennese and refugees displaced from Austria’s fragmenting empire who occupied squatter settlements on the city’s periphery in an era of postwar political and social disruption. Viennese authorities eventually took over these informal communities, formalizing and planning them using elements of the Garden City philosophy.

“It was a second, much more common type of Gemeindebau, however, that came to define Vienna — the superblock-scaled Volkswohnungspaläste (‘people’s apartment palaces’). …

“Neither elaborately decorative like Vienna’s prewar tenements nor strikingly spare like the glass-and-steel apartments of the later International Style, the Gemeindebau often straddled an intriguing line between late 19th historicism and 20th century modernism. …

“Like older tenements, the buildings were typically aligned with streets, accessorized with some decorative features such as fancy brickwork or statuary and grouped around shared common yards. But while Bassena courtyards tended to be narrow, treeless and drab, the huge courtyards of the Gemeindebauten were spacious enough to serve as as combined garden, sports facility and public square, all accessible and sheltered from street noise. …

“In general, the shared areas within the superblocks were in fact as important as the individual homes, reflecting the Viennese administration’s social philosophy. These cities-within-a-city included medical facilities, schools, libraries, post offices and theater spaces. Curved staircases connected large floors — often as many as seven — and spacious landings. …

“The individual apartments, while varying in layout, shared key features. They included a living room, a bedroom, a kitchen, and some had small entrance hallways inside the front door. Almost all units featured running water, while many had large windows and balconies. Each apartment usually housed an individual family.

“Vienna employed nearly 200 architects to build more than 380 Gemeindebau complexes between the wars, a construction boom that created 60,000 new municipal apartments. In her book The Architecture of Red Vienna 1919-1934, Harvard professor Eve Blau describes how the municipal government was able to do this through expropriation, the use of tax policies to reduce land values and zoning laws. By 1931, it owned a third of the city’s area.

“Working-class citizens might now expect to live in airy apartments and access shared facilities. Indeed, the urban philosophy of Gemeindebauten is neatly captured by a term carved by artist Mario Petrucci into a statue outside a housing project: … ‘Light in the home. Sun in the heart.’ This was more than just a slogan; it represented an entire worldview.”

More at CityLab, here. No paywall. Interesting pictures.

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Photo: Lemon42
Follow along at Vienna State Opera in any of six languages with the new subtitle system.

My husband and I use the subtitle feature for DVDs we get from Netflix, even when the movies are in English. We’re not hard of hearing, but it’s so easy to miss what people are saying — especially if the film is from England and the characters speak Mumblecore.

For the oddball plots of operas, subtitles can be even more important. Consider what the Vienna State Opera has done to keep patrons from too much confusion.

Elsabeth Parkinson reports at Limelight Magazine, “The Vienna State Opera has replaced its 16-year-old seat-back system with a new setup offering opera libretti in up to six languages …

“Since the opening of the company’s 2017/2018 earlier this month, subtitles are offered from suitably dimmed screens, in English, German, Italian, French, Russian and Japanese.

“A pre-performance information system provides such useful things to know as plot synopses, cast lists, and any general current news to do with the activities of the company. Audience members are able to view a list of frequently asked questions, or subscribe to the Vienna State Opera’s monthly newsletter. …

“Several other opera companies around the world have been diversifying their sub- and super-titling options in recent years. In New York, the Metropolitan Opera has been building on their custom-designed Met Titles system since 1995, and today it offers opera translations in English, Spanish, German and Italian. Opera Australia’s annual outdoor production Handa Opera on Sydney Harbour has allowed the audience to follow along in either English or Chinese since last year. …

“ ‘It’s extremely beneficial for [tourists] to be able to read the text in the language that they’re most comfortable with,’ [Opera Australia’s Artistic Director Lyndon Terracini] said. …

” ‘The trick is making it as unobtrusive as possible, so that you don’t detract from the performance and having it in the back of the seat is a fantastic solution to that.’ ”

Implementing such a system is more difficult when opera companies don’t own their home venues, of course.

“ ‘There are only a few companies in the world that have in-seat surtitles, and to the best of my knowledge they are only offered in venues which are controlled by those companies,’ [Victorian Opera’s Managing Director Andrew Snell] says.” More at Limelight, here.

Do you enjoy opera? I don’t go as often as I’d like. I do appreciate help with text. One of the reasons I thoroughly enjoyed Resurrection, which composer Tod Machover based on a story by Leo Tolstoy, was that it had supertitles. Of course, when you use words above the stage, you really can have only one language.

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There is always something new to learn about Stonehenge, a site shrouded in mystery for centuries.

Rossella Lorenzi writes at Discovery News, “Using noninvasive technologies such as ground-penetrating radar and geophysical imaging, a team from the University of Birmingham’s IBM Visual and Spatial Technology Centre, known as VISTA, and the Ludwig Boltzmann Institute for Archaeological Prospection and Virtual Archaeology in Vienna, discovered evidence of two huge pits positioned on a celestial alignment at Stonehenge. …

” ‘This is the first time we have seen anything quite like this at Stonehenge,’ said project leader Vince Gaffney, an archaeologist from the University of Birmingham. ‘When viewed from the Heel Stone, a rather enigmatic stone which stands just outside the entrance to Stonehenge, the pits effectively mark the rising and setting of the sun at midsummer days.’ ”

Read more here.

On YouTube you can find both boring videos about Stonehenge and funny ones. A comedy routine by Eddie Izzard made me laugh, but it’s a bit too naughty for Suzanne’s Mom’s Blog. You can check out a few of Spinal Tap singing “Stonehenge” in the movie This is Spinal Tap. And here is a great scene about Druids from that movie.

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